Lucy McIntosh is a talented young designer who graduated from Massey University just two years ago and showed at Wellington Fashion Week 2012. Here, we take a look at her AW13 Collection entitled Fundamental Construction…
Lucy McIntosh is a talented young designer who graduated from Massey University just two years ago and showed at Wellington Fashion Week 2012. Here, we take a look at her Autumn / Winter 2013 Collection entitled Fundamental Construction…
Sometimes it is difficult to separate where fine art and fashion begin.
It’s understandable. Both disciplines can transport you to places where imagination is rich, where integrity shines, and where poignancy and hope sit amiably arm in arm with the darker voices in our consciousness.
Lucy McIntosh’s work resonates with this sensitivity to dark and light, depth and surface. Inspired by Swiss painter Astrid Fitzgerald, the upcoming Autumn/Winter 2013 Collection tackles the polarities of luminosity and exquisite order with the theme of “Fundamental Construction”. Launching her label in 2011, McIntosh’s affinity with structure and fragility is expertly explored.
Strong, structural shapes work effortlessly with softer detailing and fabrics. In the Astrid Shirt, a ribboned bow-tie adds an old fashioned charm to a shape which is otherwise androgynous. Definite and confident, pieces such as the Surface Trench and Matter Trouser hold no affectations towards fragility. The Autumn collection is typical of this architectural nature, exhibiting their geometric inspirations with well constructed, beautifully sculpted pieces. Palette-wise, it offers a muted and sophisticated interpretation of monochrome; charcoal, white and black are softened and warmed by the appearance of a rich and earthy camel.
Perhaps to counteract the harshness of short, dark days, McIntosh’s Winter collection is softer, more feminine, than the masculine lines offered by Autumn. Here, deep ochre is fearlessly matched with black and navy; whoever said that these two latter hues don’t play ball together evidently hadn’t met Lucy. Adding depth and a flash of valiant brilliance, the navy offers a contemporary subtlety in the Thematic Skirt and Ration Cardy.
The addition of pattern in the Hatch Top and Dress are evidence of McIntosh’s ability to balance converse relationships. These pieces are soft and alluring and yet easily work with items such as the Surface Trouser and Collage and Construction Coats. The geometric origins of the range are on show in these two latter pieces, taking the plane surfaces of a shape and easily working in with the female form.
One of the particularly effective elements of this overall collection is McIntosh’s understanding of fabrics. Luxurious details such as a velvet bodice (Immersion Dress) meet a crazy patterned digital print (Hatch Shirt, Dress and Top); silk chiffon (Thematic Skirt) is married with a synthetic trouser shine (Form Tights).
With fashion like this, it seems fair to say that it’s an art, not only skill. Lucy McIntosh is a designer who has hit the ground running. Let’s hope she will continue to show us just how to succeed in that magic balance of light and dark, fragile and strong, within the sanctity of our wardrobes.
Model Rosie Herman from Red11
By Willow Sharp, 2 October 2012
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