Lots of Lutz

When in London, I used to love attending fashion seminars in the V&A Museum in Knightsbridge, so I was delighted that iD Dunedin puts on public lectures by its international judges. Thread attended the seminar by designer Lutz Huelle…

When in London, I used to love attending fashion seminars in the V&A Museum in Knightsbridge, so I was delighted that iD Dunedin puts on public lectures by its international judges.

What a fabulous way for everyone – particularly up-and-coming designers and fashion school students – to hear from someone in the industry much further along, and gain from their wisdom and insight.

Thread attended the seminar by Paris-based, German-born fashion designer, Lutz Huelle, held in Dunedin Art Gallery on Thursday 29th March. Apparently, iD was even moved in order to get him here, so it didn’t clash with Paris Fashion Week.

Born in Germany forty years ago, Lutz Huelle studied fashion at St Martin’s in London for four years and worked under great Belgian designer, Martin Margiela in the early 1990s, then started his own label LUTZ with David Ballu – and only 4,000 Francs each – in 2000.

He is very much into clothes being a visual expression of our self. "Everything we put on says something about us."

He also spoke about fashion portraying our many different identities. "We’re much more complex than fashion would have us believe. We’re not just ‘a housewife’, or just ‘sexy’. We’re so much more that that."

Lutz Huelle and business partner David Ballu. "If clothes are not worn, there’s no point in doing it. I’m not making costumes" Lutz says.

"Gestures are so important" he says, such as wrapping yourself in a scarf, or in a bath towel, or a skirt that spirals around the body, or just putting your hands in the pockets of a bomber jacket with fists forward (which says "Be careful, here I am!")

Lutz showed us a series of half a dozen "scarves" that magically transform into dresses. He added that since a Saks Fifth Avenue Buyer visited and stated "It’s all very nice but who’s going to explain it to the customer?" that he doesn’t do them anymore.

Below: Lutz’ most favourite piece. "It so exactly sums up everything I love" he says. "It says something about the person who wears it." The jacket is a men’s office jacket with the complete opposite – a feminine, almost vulgar trim – red fringing!

Words and photos, Megan Robinson
30 March 2012