New Zealand fashion and lifestyle blog

Model Casting the NZ Fashion Festival

At the end of Karen Inderbitzen-Waller’s “tour-of-duty” around Auckland’s leading agencies we asked her thoughts on casting, her criteria for models, and we get a heads-up on who to watch this year…

This year, the format for casting models for the New Zealand Fashion Festival has changed. Exclusive to Thread.co.nz and Trendstreet.co.nz, we share all about it…

For three whole days, Trendstreet followed NZFF Creative Director, Karen Inderbitzen-Waller, on her “tour-of-duty” around Auckland’s leading talent agencies in order to see how she chooses the models that will be gracing the runways this year.

At the end of this labour-intensive process, we sat down with Karen to get her thoughts on the casting process, find out what her criteria is for choosing models and get a heads-up on who to watch this year. Aspiring models take note!



How did you find the change of format this year for casting the models?

I’ve quite liked it. Obviously, it’s been a lot more work for me but the agencies have gone all out to “lay it on” for us and make the time, and work hard to get it done. It’s been great because it helps to see the models in real life, especially ones you’ve never seen. It’s been a bit better for me because I’ve been able to see them and meet them a little bit more. Because on the day [at a normal casting], all you can be doing is looking through your cards to find out who that was and miss somebody. It’s been really good and people stand out straight away. I think I’d do it again this way if I could. It’s [also] quite good to go into the agencies. I was quite impressed with Clyne, [it’s] quite a great place to see girls walking.

I’ve really enjoyed it but I’m really glad it’s over now as there are so many decision to make. I’m definitely going to ensure that each agency has representation, even if it’s just one model. I would like to feel that there was someone from every agency, I think it’s fair. I have to work with these agencies all year and if people don’t support them, they don’t survive. The casting has been really fun. I’m kind of bummed that it’s over but, at the same time, there are a lot of people relying on me now.



What is your criteria for choosing models for the Fashion Festival?

Obviously, height. Because they are wearing so many designers’ brands they have to have the height. There is not the opportunity there is with Fashion Week to remake things for people so they all have to be of the same sort-of height. And [an] easy fit. Also, good walkers. So often, especially with the general public, they just can’t get past a bad walker – it’s all they’ll talk about. So, good walk, good height and good skin [are the main criteria]. I’ve had big meetings with MAC and all of the looks that we are doing have a base of juicy, healthy, athletic skin. That skin’s going to carry out through the whole week so I’m pretty committed to giving them [MAC] the fresh skin. So, out of everyone that I choose, I should at least be able to pick good skin. … And that they’re healthy basically … you can’t have anybody who’s too bruised or pale or underfed.

Are there any up-and-coming models that you wish to mention?
There is one that I am just absolutely obsessed with, which is my “new face” and I didn’t make her come to the last casting [at the agency] because I’ve been working with her so much. Her name is Dasha [Cherkasov from Vanity Walk]. I love her freshness, her attitude. We used her in a show [Kate Sylvester show at the Art Gallery] and she was so nervous, she had to put this pencil behind her ear and everything. It was one of the little tricks she had to do as the other models were doing acting and all sorts of things. I see her backstage just walking and practicing. You know, I just love that that she’s so excited and studious. But not one of those over-excited models that comes out and throws her own stuff in mix because she’s so excited. I think that her look is so beautiful and fresh that it just suits every designer. A lot of my favourite girls are in New York but I think that as far as local girls in town at the moment, I mean she’s one of my favourites when the others are back too, but I think that she is the most international girl that’s here and the nicest to work with. The one whose look just bleeds through all of the designers. She just can’t do anything wrong basically, she’s just lovely. I think that she’s just so fresh and nice to deal with and I hope that she keeps that as a lot of the girls get sick of it. So, I’m looking forward to working with her again and seeing her transform across the week. She’s definitely my “one to watch” for the Fashion Festival.

What about a Kiwi model that has stood out?
Jess from Red 11; a new face at Red 11 that I’ve worked with when she was much younger, when she was about twelve or thirteen. I love her, she’s really beautiful. She reminds of Zippora Seven who I am working with tomorrow, who is the 5.7” model who is working all around the world. She’s got so much beauty and she [Jess] really stood out. And, obviously, there lots of other local girls that I like.

What about other internationals that you would like to note?
Katrina from Clyne (pictured above) because she is an amazing Dutch-American. I’ve booked her on two jobs already. She’s my favourite international. And then of course I like Kelvin [from Clyne Models]. Kelvin’s a girl that I can confidently put throughout the whole week and know that no one will complain about her because she’s perfect and just looks good in everything. I don’t know anyone in Fashion Week that would not like her [Kelvin]. And Dasha for me is in the same league, she just transforms. Those girls are just doing every night. The three Russians are doing every night. I’m really excited about the Russians we have in New Zealand now, they’re amazing.

What about those models who have been doing it for a while now?
Penny Pickard from N Models, who is 31 years old, and she has walked the runway every year since the beginning of Fashion Week. She’s having a complete career revival because overseas they’re using a lot of older models again and she’s a very popular model. She’s the one that the crowd loves, the public loves, the designers love. Her and Ngahuia, who actually runs N Management, she’s going to feature in the shows on Friday. Because it’s her boyfriend’s label [Stolen Girlfriends Club], I think that she [Ngahuia] wants to have one day of the fun because she still enjoys modeling. Her and Penny will definitely be the stalwarts. Penny is the face of Fashion Festival as well.

What did each model have to demonstrate for you to be able to make the decision to cast her or him?
It’s the look straight off, whether their look is strong. You see a lot of pretty girls on the street but to be a model you have to have confidence, presence and a bit of a sparkle. Something that makes you stand out. It can even be the way they presented themselves on the day. Obviously, girls dress in different ways for these castings. They have to dress in a way that shows their body but sometimes if a model is dressed very stylishly then it helps you to imagine her a bit better. Whereas, if they come in wearing cut-off shorts, God, that’s all you see these days is cut-off shorts. If a girl can walk in and be dressed well then it leaves a good impression.

A lot of the designers offer models contra-payment as part of their payment and I think that it is important for models that are starting out to actually get some clothes payments and wear some of the brands that are in the events. Nine times out of ten, you’re going to choose that girl because she looks good. I mean what’s wrong with a little black dress? I don’t see why everybody has to wear these teenage shorts.

I like personality, presence, presentation and the fact that they turn up. I mean, a lot of these kids don’t even turn up. You go home and you go through the photos but if someone doesn’t turn up and the agent has forgotten to give you their card then they’re gone. Ones that make the effort to turn up, nine times out of ten I’m going to book them because they’re there and they look amazing. Whereas [for] someone who didn’t come, I can’t risk whether they’re going to look good or not" Karen says.

So, all of you aspiring or up-and-coming models, pay close attention to the above advice which comes from someone who has worked on her fair share of fashion weeks and knows exactly what to look for in potential talent. For the rest of us, it looks like we have an exciting line-up of designers and models to look forward to at this year’s Fashion Festival, which kicks off on the 24th February 2012.

Photography by Sacha Stejko.
16 February 2012
Trendstreet.co.nz


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