Become an architectural feat of beauty. Womenswear has featured some pretty impressive silhouettes and shapes over the years, but today’s designers are pushing it to new levels; elevating clothing to sculptural works of art..
Alia Gargum brings us an exclusive trend report for Thread.co.nz from London Fashion Week AW12…
Become an architectural feat of beauty.
Womenswear has featured some pretty impressive silhouettes and shapes over the years, but today’s designers are pushing it to new levels; elevating clothing to sculptural works of art.
Prose showed a breathtakingly simple collection that reminded me of the sea at winter.
Each collection begins with materials that interests Miriam Lehle, the designer behind the label, and this collection started with a blue curtain.
The designer cut the curtain into pieces, wove, and dyed it to create feather-like fringes and patterns.
The wet-look hair, trailing moss-like fringing and spiky sea urchin fringing pulled together an understated and feminine look.
The shiny fringing even extended to the shoes, set off by rust-coloured velvet trousers or simple shirts created a feast for the eyes. So many different materials together shouldn’t work, but Prose made it look individual and focused.
Following from her success as part of the ‘Ones to Watch’ London Fashion Week show last season, Georgia Hardinge (who has already won a few high-profile fans, including Beyoncé) made moving printed structures out of her models for Autumn/Winter 2012.
Continuing her signature figure-flattering prints, she used folds of fabric to construct shapes that framed the body or outlined a pocket. One dress in particular was breathtaking; folded wine-red fabric surrounding the décolletage and hips while the model’s movements flowed through printed silk. The result was sensual yet regal and controlled all at the same time.
You always know a knock-out dress when everyone starts clicking their cameras like crazy. It left the audience on a high as it was the last outfit on the catwalk and was brought out again by the designer for her little bow at the end.
Another designer who describes himself as a maker of ‘sculptural chic’ turned to his Spanish roots for inspiration. Using details from traditional dress, Emilio de la Morena twisted leather into knots in homage to head scarves, creating dresses that me and many a fashion editor swooned over.
Waists were cinched in with double-buckle belts and emphasized with soft and patent leather panels in what reminded me of corsets. Long-legged models looked even longer with ankle-skimming dress lengths, and the mostly monochrome colour palette made this a very grown-up collection.
The fact that Emilio made a note of ‘taking a hiatus’ from his signature mini cocktail dresses for this longer-length collection made up of straight lines shows he means business for Autumn/Winter 2012. The look was strong and commandingly sexy without flashing flesh.
Figures were transformed into a series of simple shapes, which felt like a visual breath of fresh air.
Words and photos on location at London Fashion Week
By Alia Gargum, 16 March 2012
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