Cook the books

Instead of ending with dessert, I have decided to start with it. Just because I can. And also because of a quote in this first book that says “Life’s too short; eat dessert first”…

Well, there is just about something for everyone in this lot of cookbooks. I have been lucky enough to have Sarah Jane Gillies cast her learned eye over these as well to add her professional opinion on the books.

Instead of ending with dessert, I have decided to start with it. Just because I can. And also because of a quote in this first book that says “Life’s too short; eat dessert first”. Sparkle Cupcakes – The Little Black Book by Kathryn Button and really does the whole ‘cupcakes replacing everything else as dessert’ thing beautifully.

Sparkle Cupcakes is one of the Australian companies that really does the NYC cupcake well. They are in Surrey Hills in Sydney in a very glamorous store where you can have a cup of tea or a glass of champagne with your cupcake! These cupcakes are all about celebration, and each recipe is linked to a particular occasion from Josh and Elliot’s Mardi Gras Party, to the Ling Family’s New Year recipe and everything in between. There are red velvet cupcakes (my all time favourite), lavender and honey, coconut bling to Christmas spice cupcakes. It is simply presented but my only comment would be some of the measurements are bit odd. I am told that the 14g of baking powder translates to 1 tblspn just for reference…I would say this is to do with the fact that they are taking a recipe for 12 dozen cupcakes and cutting it down to a manageable amount for a domestic kitchen. Sparkle Cupcakes by Kathryn Button is by New Holland Publishing $39.95.

One Pot Wonders by Michelin chef Conrad Gallagher is NOT your usual sort of easy to cook, throw it all in one pot, sort of cook book. Its easy title belies its slightly more complicated nature. If you open the book at random, you get recipes like roasted salmon with saffron cream sauce, or stir fried duck breast with broad beans, cranberries and shiitake. They all sound divine – pappardelle with rabbit loin, mustard and parsley for instance – but this is as far away from the sort of ‘throw it all in a pot and hope for the best’ sort of cooking I am renowned for than crocheting is from a Persian rug. This is a book for someone who is comfortable with a wide range of foods and ingredients and is confident in the kitchen. Neither of which I am – but that isn’t going to stop me from having a go at maple-glazed pears with spiced cream or ratatouille with rocket and Parmesan. One day. One Pot Wonders by Conrad Gallagher is published by Kyle Books – New Holland Publishing and is $29.

Rick Stein engenders a rosy reaction with almost everyone. His easy, enthusiastic manner and great love for food, and the people who make/grow/produce it makes all his cookbooks something to look forward too. This latest book Rick Stein’s Spain is just spot on for all Rick Stein fans, from the sunny Mediterranean blue cover with the smiling Stein to the fabulous photographs in the book that make you want to go out and buy it immediately. He gives such a great introduction to each recipe explaining the region, and its food and how it came about. We love the look of Veal Pork Serrano Ham and Porcini Mushroom Cannelloni and especially the Lamb-Stuffed Aubergines with Moorish Spices and Manchego Cheese. There is a great plethora of fish recipes, as you would expect from a Spanish Cookbook, and some especially lovely desserts like the Rice Pudding with a Caramel Topping. This would be a lovely book for the man in your life. Rick Stein’s Spain is published by Random House; $70.

Crockpots and slow cookers, once very much maligned, are returning to become a busy woman’s best friend. As they should. There really isn’t a better thing that to walk into the house after a long day with work/children/errands than the smell of a cooked meal. It also has the added bonus of the children knowing EXACTLY what is for dinner – as they see it being made in the morning. No one needs to ask. Thank goodness – it is the worst question a child can ask their Mother… if they just wait 10 minutes they will be eating it and they will know! Grrr… While the weather has been so vile, this book has been sitting permanently on my kitchen bench along with my slow cooker. The book contains great hearty soup recipes like Kumara and Pumpkin with peanut. It has all the favourites like Spaghetti Bolognese (which I have made and loved) and chilli (ditto). It also has meatloaf, meatballs, and beef stroganoff, all of which are simple and easy to make. We loved the recipe for stock – so that you are making stock while you sleep – ready to be used for a recipe in the morning! Genius – why hasn’t anyone else thought of that? There is also a dessert section that has crème brulee, rhubarb fool with star anise and honey – and chocolate and coconut pudding with a hint of lime. There is even a recipe for All Season’s Christmas Pudding for goodness sake – for your slow cooker! If you have a slow cooker, you need this book. Joan Bishop’s NZ Crockpot & Slow Cooker Cookbook is published by Random House and is $34. And did we mention the dumpling recipe.

Well, we left the National Treasure until last. The combination of Allyson Gofton and Country Calendar seems an inspired one. Two New Zealand institutions – beloved by all – combined in one book. In the book Allyson returns to 20 farms, lodges, vineyards, orchards and stations around New Zealand. All have been featured on Country Calendar at some time. This book reads far more like a book than a cookbook, with wonderful insights into the lives of the many who live intrinsically a difficult life. Some of the many recipes supplied by the families themselves reflect this, with chutneys and preserves strongly featured. The families work to the seasons and as such the book is divided into seasons with recipes to suit. Lots of good home baking recipes; many made with locally-grown produce. Watch out for Chilled Lemon Mousse (recipe by Allyson), Peanut Butter Cookies (recipe supplied by the Calders from Bluff), Baked Chicken Breast with Truffles (the Halls from Gisborne) and the stunning Slow Roast Fillet of Beef (Lois from Rippon Vineyard). It is worth the price of the book for that recipe alone! It is a wonderful look into a life we take very for granted in New Zealand but as we become more of an urban culture, many of the stories, tales, and experiences of the more ‘agricultural’ get a little lost. This book brings them firmly back into their rightful place. Learn a lot about New Zealand, about who we are – and get a whole raft of fabulous recipes as well. A national treasure it is. Country Calendar Cookbook with Allyson Gofton is published by Penguin Books, for $50.

By Anya Brighouse 20 September 2011