Thread attended the M.A.C Cosmetics Season Summary with Senior Artist Amber D to hear about their four hot new make-up looks for AW12: Sense + Sensibility, Roam-Antique, Hone-Structure and Arti-Tech…
Thread attended the M.A.C Cosmetics Season Summary with Senior Artist Amber D to hear about their four hot new make-up looks for AW12: Sense + Sensibility, Roam-Antique, Hone-Structure and Arti-Tech.
Amber Dreadon told Thread how the trends originate; a team from M.A.C meets after the Paris runway shows, to discuss key themes comning through from designers and what they have seen around the place, and four key themes are developed by M.A.C, as being the looks for the season.
In all, it was a considered approach to how a woman wants to look in the world today, with less frills and fun and more modern and intelligent. Influences from diverse cultures came in to play drawing on global makeup. Also important is a sense of structure, anchored with a defined feature such as a red lip or a graphic black eye or strong brow (the defining feature of AW12.)
Here, then, are the four trends:
Sense + Sensibility is a posh beauty, usually with red lips. This look is very groomed, and sexy, but feminine. It is based on Lady Chatterley; melted-in, creamy skin, with flushed cheeks. "Until recently, it’s been all about skin. Now, colour’s back; beauty is back. There’s more technique and definition in the application," says Kiri from M.A.C.
"This season, the red lip is no longer optional. You MUST have Ruby Woo, Russian Red, and Lady Danger" says Amber D.
Below: House of Holland
Below: Kenzo
Roam-Antique is a soft, shadowy romanticism; a bohemian world-traveller. She’s a nomadic, late sixties, early seventies free-spirit. There’s a distinct lip, with metallics and glosses added into it. It sees the evolution of metallics as the technology is getting so much better. Tones are burnt orange, brown, metallic greys. Charlotte Tilbury did a beautiful chocolate lip using lip pencil with Film Noir lipstick. Alex Box says, "I want them to look like they’re in love; happy."
M.A.C Artist Kiri added, "Skin is creamy, not matte. These days we spend a lot of time prepping skin for instance with Cream Colour Base and Studio Skin Foundation."
Below: Vivienne Westwood Red Label
Hone-Structure is about creating shape with structure, not colour. It’s a very modern make-up; a blueprint for the modern face. It involves building up the sturcture of the face; the physics of the face’s contours. Taupes, browns, and caramels are used, rather than colour. It’s about using highlights, mid-tones and dark tones to create dimension. This is quite a technical style of make-up. It’s about creating shadow as in a black and white photo.
Below: Alexander Wang
Arti-Tech is a graphic trend of using eyeliner on its own. Fluidline Eye-Liner Gel in Blacktrack is the most user-friendly product to use for eye liner. Use a angled fine-tip brush with the gel pot. In this look, skin is very uptown; eyeliner’s very downtown. It’s much harder, much straighter – and not too pretty. It’s a graphic black eye with a much harder edge. It has very intelligent and considered placement.
Below: Erdem.
Below: Antonio Marras
Megan Robinson 10 August 2012
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