M.A.C Cosmetics Trainers Kiekie and Olivia talked us through tips for creating an ‘Invitation Out’ face at the M.A.C Technique makeup seminar at Fashion Weekend 2013…
M.A.C Cosmetics Trainers Kiekie and Olivia talked us through tips for creating an ‘Invitation Out’ face at the M.A.C Technique makeup seminar at Fashion Weekend 2013.
First – preparing the skin.
Models Aislinn (left, wearing Miss Crabb) and Ella (right, wearing Juliette Hogan) of N Model Management had their skin prepped with M.A.C Prep & Prime and Face & Body Foundation.
Next up – brows.
At shows this week at NZ Fashion Week, brows have been strong – the "Boy Brow" is still going strong, and brows combed upwards and set with brow gel either clear or in a soft tint in a range of colours.
One of Olivia’s favourite products is the Brow Pencil in Lingering. She extends the brow a litle bit by pulling the brow height up extending it – to create an instant eye lift effect.
Olivia loves the Smoulder black eye pencil "It is SO dark!" It’s a soft, blendable eye pencil that’s safe to use in your water line if you like that look. It has been on M.A.C makeup counters forever and is one of their most famous and popular products.
Often when people are starting out and trying to do a smoky eye, they use way too many products. "I’m going to use a maximum of two, maybe three products, plus mascara" said Olivia. She created a base with the black Smoulder eye pencil blended by brush.
Kiekie commented that, "Fluidline liquid liner is the easiest liquid eye liner to apply. You can use the gel (in the new M.A.C Indulge collection) by itself blended out as an eyeshadow by itself, or as a base for eyeshadows.
Olivia used Veluxe Pearl Fusion eyeshadow (from palette of 5 colours) with the 217 MAC brush; "a top 20 brush." Hold it loosely and use soft circular motions to blend the product right out. "What did I ever do before I had one of these brushes?!" she said.
Kiekie used Mineralise Face Powder on Aislinn, softly sweeping through the natural eye socket, giving a contour to the eyelid a bit darker than her natural skin colour (using Medium-Dark on Aislinn) for almost a bronzer effect.
Olivia used the 29 brush to soften out the edges to create the same smoky effect, underneath the eye, over top of a Smoulder pencil water line eyeliner.
Kie Kie used Fluidline in Blacktrack (another cult product); it’s a gel so it glides easily and dries smoothly and can be blended out. Company of Strangers show used this as a base under the glittery eyeshadow and Kiekie "knew it was going to stay". She used a 239 pencil-tip brush. A trick to doing liquid liner on yourself is to tip your chin up – so your lashline is smooth and lifted up.
Olivia used an eyeshadow pot in Corduroy. "Lucky for us the ‘undone smoky eye’ is a huge trend right now, it doesn’t have to be too perfect!" Add Corduroy under the eye as well as over it. Tip: if you have a bit of drop-down (excess eye shadow falling out onto your face), use a brush with a bit of face product on it to pick up the drop-down.
Kiekie on creating a cat’s eye: "Don’t pull it out too far and be Amy Winehouse. Turn around and start on the outside and come back in towards the eye."
Olivia: "I’ve been known to do about 7 or 8 layers of mascara; no dramatic exaggeration for the story, it’s true!" She used Haute & Naughty black mascara on Ella. "Always do your lower lashes first" (so the top ones don’t come off on your skinwhen you look up to do the bottom ones.)
Kiekie said she’s keeping lashes "looking fluffier and not too thick as we’re concentrating on the lips. I’m using Extended Play Lash (in a blue tube) which is an 8 hour wearing mascara."
Next up – blush.
Kiekie used Blush Creme in ‘Pony’ from the new Indulge collection, and a 190 foundation brush; a synthetic brush is good for applying blush creme. Cheeks were not a feature at fashion week this year.
Kiekie used SkinFinish Powder to create contour but still "look like skin." Darken the area on temple with 168 Contour Brush (slanted brush for sculpting face) and do circles on the cheekbone to create a really soft shadow.
Kiekie used Cream Colour Base in Pearl to make her cheekbone pop out. It looks "glowy" as opposed to looking "shiny." You can use a brush or your fingertips and press it onto their skin in the highpoints of the face.
Finally – lips.
To finish, Kiekie used lip-pencil in Night Moth – a deep plum burgundy which is really on trend right now. She fills in the lip first then draws a smooth lipline after. Tip: Lift your chin up in the mirror to do the bottom lip. Using Just A Bite from the M.A.C Indulge collection. "A bold lip is still really on trend and will be for a while yet. We’ve seen lots this week at fashion week, including at Zambesi."
Below: All the products used for Aislinn’s "strong lip" look.
Olivia used Lipliner in Spice (another cult product; a natural, warm pinky brown) to lightly fill in Ella’s lip with Spice to create definition.
Lastly, she used Clear Lip Glass to fill in Ella’s lip. "We used it at fashion week this week to make lips shiny and amazing. You can put it over the top of anything. Finish with Prep & Prime Powder to keep you looking matte all day long and for touch up emergencies. It’s amazing."
All done! A dramatic eye look on (Ella) and a dramatic lip look (Aislinn).
Megan Robinson, 8th September 2013
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