New Zealand fashion and lifestyle blog

Jimmy D's Buzz Kill

Thread talks to Jimmy D designer James Dobson to find out a bit about what is coming up for him, and a little bit about his fabulous style that seems to us to be both sexually and seasonally androgynous…

Thread talks to Jimmy D designer James Dobson to find out a bit about what is coming up for him, and a little bit about his fabulous style that seems to us to be both sexually and seasonally androgynous; clothing that bends all the rules with gender, and blurs those traditional summer/winter collections. It’s just great clothing for those of us who love it.

Your summer 11/12 Buzz Kill must be nearly starting to arrive in store. Can you tell us a bit about what influenced you with this collection?

I was thinking about last winter’s scary Goth girl character and started imagining where she came from. I made up this story in my head that she was from a small town called Blessing, Texas, a town of 800 in the shadow of a nearby nuclear power plant. Kicked out of home, she embarks on a road trip across America and towards the darkly alluring city of ‘lost angels’.

All of the pieces in the collection either reference her past (deconstructed prim and frilly dresses, grid iron-inspired shirts, prairie florals), her road trip adventure (singlet dresses with attached hoods, army style sleeveless parkas, and slouchy linen pants) or the girl she is about to become (pentacle strap bras, vampy double split dresses and boyish low-slung shorts with punk inspired bum-flaps).

Breakdown dress, the Drift top.

And what are your favourite pieces? We just love the Exile Pant, Cult Dress, Hitch Tee, Drift Top, Breakdown Dress – and especially the Floral Print you had made – it is a gothic Laura Ashley feel to it!

Totally! There was a nod to small town America, as well as the obvious ‘Grunge’ connotations; the print is sweet but with a dark edge. I’m also totally in love with the take on the 90’s acid house smiley face – we made it a sad face with pentacles for eyes. It’s meant to be dark but kind of so overtly dark that it’s almost kind of funny.

The Exile pant.

I have pieces of yours that must be 6 years old, and I still love them and wear them. Why do you think your clothes have such longevity to them?

I’m so glad to hear that! It’s a cliché, but I’m really not remotely interested in ‘trends’, I’m more idea driven, and I’m always thinking what’s new to explore, or what contrasting influences can I fuse together to create something original. I also really try to think about my customer, what she/he may already have in their wardrobe from my label, and what I can offer them that’s new. I hate the idea of fad-ish fashion, it should have longevity, and you should always be striving to create pieces that people are going to covet and cherish.

With just fashion week nearly upon us, is there anything you could tell us about what we might see with It’s a Kind of Magick Winter 2012?

Oooooh I think there will be a few surprises for people… SOME colour, new silhouettes and fabrications, and a new aspect to the collection we’re looking forward to having on the runway. There’s also some incredible prints courtesy of Auckland artist Andrew McLeod that are pretty incredible. Stay tuned.

The Cult dress, and the Reactor singlet with Buzzkill print.

Interview and portrait photography by Anya Brighouse 18 August 2011


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