The results are in. How ethical are the brands you wear?
Plus, five tips for sustaining a wardrobe that’s kinder to people and the planet.
It’s been eight years since the Rana Plaza garment factory collapsed in Bangladesh, splitting open the seams of a tight-lipped, secretive fashion industry riddled with hidden exploitation. This also means it’s been eight years since people all over the world began championing a new type of fashion industry—one that empowers and doesn’t exploit; that preserves and doesn’t destroy.
It can sometimes feel impossible to be an eco-conscious and ethical-minded consumer in today’s world, so I’m very excited to share this trusty shopping companion with you: Tearfund’s industry-leading Ethical Fashion Guide. The guide, released today, grades Kiwi, Aussie and top global brands from A+ to F on their efforts to protect garment workers and reduce their environmental impact. It includes 98 companies representing over 400 brands.
The good news? Many NZ companies have made incredible progress over the last two years, despite this seemingly never-ending pandemic:
A few NZ standouts:
- Five NZ companies are in the top 20 companies: AS Colour, Glassons, Kathmandu, Macpac and Joyya.
- The average NZ score was higher than the overall average score
- Five NZ companies have improved their grade since 2019
- Macpac is in the top 10 most-improved companies increasing from B- to A
- The lowest graded NZ brands were Farmers, Max, and The Warehouse.
While these improvements give us many reasons to celebrate, there is still a long way to go.
The elephant in the room with most fashion companies is that while many claim eco-conscious collections, carbon neutrality, and an array of “give-back” initiatives, the workers in their supply chains can barely afford to put food on the table. This year, only four of 98 companies paid a living wage to the people who make their clothes, and only one of these companies is in New Zealand.
So. What’s next?
Becoming a conscious consumer is truly not as difficult or overwhelming as it can sometimes sound! Alongside using the Ethical Fashion Guide to buy clothes that align with your values, here are five tips for curating a kinder wardrobe:
- Buy less so you can buy quality. On a budget? Most of us are. The truth is, quality, ethical pieces cost more. If we choose to buy one thing every few months instead of a few things every month, it frees us up to spend a bit more to ensure quality in the garment and the lives of the people who made it.
- Swap and borrow. Do you have a special occasion coming up and you have the urge to wear something new? Go shopping in a friend’s wardrobe! (Or let’s be honest…your significant other probably has some fab pieces too. I never knew how cute my husband’s white, oversized button-down could be until I copied Meg Ryan’s iconic outfit in French Kiss). Borrowing a few pieces is the perfect way to wear something new and different without spending a cent. Better yet? Turn it into a fun gals’ night by hosting a clothes swap—it’s a win for you, your friends, and the planet.
- Re-fall in love. Remember when you sat in the dressing room for half an hour, sweat beading on your forehead, unsure of how you could possibly decide between the two perfect garments in front of you? If you chose one, I’m proud of you. If you ended up with both despite every ounce of your budget-conscious mind telling you not to, it’s okay, we’ve all been there! At some point, you felt the thrill of bringing home every piece you currently own. So, instead of buying new, do your best to fall back in love with these beautiful pieces! Take them out dancing, give them their moment in the spotlight. Spend a night playing dress up in your closet. Re-imagine outfits, try out new combinations, cut off the bottoms of some old jeans (we love a raw-hem). The most ethical wardrobe is the one you already own.
- Opt for vintage. Op-shopping is one of the most budget-friendly ways to shop ethically. If you have a bit more room in your budget, opt for unique, vintage pieces as they’ll set you apart and are often higher quality. Turns out, the saying “they just don’t make ‘em like they used to” rings true when it comes to beautifully crafted vintage pieces. There’s also just something magical about keeping clothes out of a landfill by giving them a second, or even third, life. But keep in mind, it’s still good to be mindful consumers and only purchase what we absolutely love and will wear for years to come.
- Follow the right people. Detox your inbox and Instagram feed. Getting notified every time “this year’s biggest sale!” happens is not doing the planet or your credit card any favours (especially when the sale somehow happens twelve times a year). Instead, follow blogs, businesses and leaders in the ethical fashion space. We’ve done the nitty-gritty research so that you don’t have to!
To get The Ethical Fashion Guide, visit tearfund.org.nz/ethicalfashionguide
By Morgan Theakston
19 October 2021