As I write, we are in the midst of London Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week has just ended, each bringing with it not only new fashion, but complementary hair and makeup looks. The question for most women watching from home on blogs and on social media, is how do I wear that; how do I translate these often avant-garde looks, for my own life? MAC makeup artists working on the international runway shows do exactly that: distilling the key looks they see on the runways into four key trends that we’re seeing this season.
I headed along to the media presentation recently to hear M.A.C Artistic Directors James Molloy and Kiekie Stanners discuss each of these four SS15 trends in “a makeup chat” and demonstrate them live on models wearing New Zealand fashion from Ciel fashion showroom.
Typically, I had to leave before the end to get the kids from kindy, so I have incomplete notes for the last two trends sorry – but luckily they gave us the most incredible resource book so I am schooled up from that.
The numero uno, over-arching trend was of LIGHT. Lightness was seen both literally, in highlighting, and metaphorically, in a lightness of touch. So then, here are the latest M.A.C makeup trends from the catwalk
TREND 1 – RE:VIEW
James commented that we’ve seen a very ‘done’ face and now we’re seeing a 180 turn, as fashion does, to the idea of pulling things back to bare skin with just a liner and the idea of a ‘nothing’ face being not bare, but beautiful. This first trend, REVIEW, is deconstructed, re-working the classic liner. It’s a jumbo liner or short and clipped; nothing in-between. See Costume National’s clumpy mascara, overly-layered, but not too “dolly” and Twiggy 1960s-like. The trend tip here is layer and layer.
See also Ann Demeulemeester – who does a brow or an eye each season with a carefree sweep of brush across lids. 1950s wedge eyeliner extends the eye almost like a wingtip, by makeup artist Terry Barbour. There were very Gemma ward-esque wide-set eyes, pulling apart the eyes using neutrals at Alberta Ferretti and Salvatore Ferragamo.
Below: Emilio Pucci face by Lisa Butler.
Below: Iris van Herpen face by Inge Grognard.
Below: Lightscapade Mineralize Skinfinish powder compact to add light.
Below: Trend Forecast Lip & Cheek Palette Spring 15 with
Seasonally Peach / Spring Sensation
Must Have Melon / Go Guava
Bang On Red / One To Watch
In the live demo of mascara layering, model Monica had Haute & Naughty mascara applied using the full-fat brush. “The thicker the better.” Just when you think the lash can’t take any more mascara you go and add another coat!” She wears Jimmy d.
Note: it used to be a tribe, an army of girls on the runway, now it’s the girl being her own look.
TREND 2 – ENLIGHTENED
Speaking about highlighting, but an underling mood – “Clean and clear light above the clouds” says makeup artist Alex Box. Past seasons have seen lots of shine, which is still around. “It’s bathing skin in light” says Kiekie. See the Christopher Lemaine show, where artists used lots of Shine Mixing Medium. It’s about creating a porcelain veil of highlighting that’s luminous without being shimmery and sparkly. See also the Haider Ackermann show, with “alienesque nude taupe shades on an army of angels” said Kiekie, with a white feathered lash, and brows bleached out, and Clear Lipglass. Strobe cream is a cult favourite mixed with Cream Colour Base to create beautiful other-worldy makeup. The face is highlighted but no sculpted bone sculpture.
Below: Issey Miyake, face by Alex Box.
Below: Marni face by Tom Pecheux.
The second demonstration model, Tessa, had a makeup look based on Kenzo’s; modern, pure calmness, with Shine Mixing Medium on fingertips on the tops of cheekbones, to create highlights.
TREND 3 – FREE PARTY
Veils of sorbet, baby blue, mint, creamy coral-ly tones make up this trend, inspired by free spirits and music festivals from Burning Man to Glastonbury. It draws upon folky vibes to streetstyle girls in new-age colours with an oceanic feel – aquatic greens and sea foam to icecream pastels.
Below: Alexis Mabille face by Carole Colombani.
Below: Manish Arora face by Kabuki, who said it depicts “a fresh-faced, sporty look with an ethereal iridescent element.”
Below: Max Mara face by Tom Pecheux.
TREND 4 – “No Makeup”
This is all about capturing a real fresh natural beauty. This look goes from a bare face to a sun-kissed skin look, with an attitude of keeping it real. Don’t be fooled into thinking this look is lazy, to the contrary, it takes more effort, as skin is clean and clear and shows everything! It’s about “looking the best version of ourselves.”
Below: Desigual face by Gordon Espinet.
Create The Look:
Top: Spring 15 Lip Palette
L-R: Superslick Liquid Eye Liner in On The Hunt
Eye Brows Crayon Pour Les Sourcils in Lingering
Pro Longwear Paint Pot in Stormy Pink
Lightscapade Mineralize Skinfinish
Prep + Prime Natural Radiance Base Lumiere in Radiant Pink
Haute & Naughty Too Black Lash
Megan Robinson
21st February 2015
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