On the last day of Mercedes-Benz Australian Fashion Week 2018 I had the pleasure of attending a fascinating seminar on influencers, fashion weeks, and media, called Industry Threads: Maker, Market, and Media.
Presented by the Museum of Applied Arts and Sciences, Industry Threads: Maker, Market and Media was an incredible opportunity to hear how different ecosystems within the fashion world come together to build the industry, featuring perspectives from the most prominent industry players visiting Sydney for MBFWA, along with local experts. These industry experts included Aaron Newbill, Senior Manager at IMG Models New York; Steff Yotka, Fashion News and Emerging Platforms Editor for Vogue US; Sonny Vandevelde, International Fashion Photographer; and Nikki Andrews, NAC Media.
Twenty years ago, the story at Fashion Week was about stores. Vogue sat on one side of the runway, and Harper’s Bazaar on the other, and they wouldn’t speak. ‘Media’ meant a magazine cover or page 3 of a newspaper. Today, all that has changed.
First up: what were your objectives in being here in Sydney for Fashion Week?
Aaron Newbill, Senior Manager at IMG Models New York: Objectives of being here in Sydney were to recognise the talent coming out of this market, both in design and model-wise. Also, to get a fresh perspective on fashion from their market. He was thrilled and overwhelmed by how friendly and flawlessly Fashion Week is run here. “It’s a seamless machine! Everyone’s relaxed and appears to go on without a hitch. It is truly an international fashion show.”
Steff Yotka, Fashion News and Emerging Platforms Editor for Vogue US: Objectives are to get face time with people here, and to discover trends. She says that lifestyle concepts are known to often start off here in Australia. Yotka also reviews the collections, sees the new models, and says that Australia is a great “launch pad for superstars on the international stage.”
Sonny Vandevelde, International Fashion Photographer, is a Freelance Photographer who has done Australian Fashion Week since its very start. “My objective for the week is to pay rent!” he said wryly. Also, to take great photos of the models and show the clothes so designers are happy, and to produce great photos of their work.
Nikki Andrews, founder of NAC Media, said her objectives were to oversee PR for IMG, to put the spotlight on FW Australia. She said it’s their fourth year in this role, and they have a team of 12 on the ground from early morning to late evening. “A lot of things happen on the fly.”
What are new things we’re seeing at FW, such as models on social media with own profiles?
Aaron Newbill – The jury is still out on that. Some designers are looking for models with a million followers and others aren’t looking for that. They’re making a decision on their look: skin colour, hair colour, etc not their following.
Do ‘Likes’ generate sales?
Nikki Andrews- It depends on the DNA of a brand. Some are very driven by Instagram. Even luxury brands are collaborating with influencers in an in-depth way. They’re actually generating content for them rather than just having them sitting front row.
Aaron Newbill – Whether it works in the long run remains to be seen. But we’ll see it evolve and change. We all wish there was a magic formula. It’s an ever-changing landscape and we should embrace that.
Steff Yotka – I’m an Instagram fan, whether it’s Gigi or Kendall. It’s really empowering that there’s no gatekeepers now to telling your story. You can just go live on your Instagram. As a journalist it pushes me to tell new stories about the stories I love. We do so much work on Snapchat, Instagram, and Facebook that we weren’t doing 5 years ago or even last Fashion Week.
Aaron Newbill – I’ve been in the industry 20 years and before it was a bit limited -when it was a print magazine – as to how do I get in become a model or designer or print journalist? Now with these worlds it opens it up to people inspired by that world to get in.
Questions on structuring Fashion Weeks, and runway shows vs showing online only
Aaron Newbill – I equate a fashion show to a gallery having a show. There’s a very specific place you need to present the work whether it is clothes or photography. We’ll see how it evolves from the traditional fashion show runway situation. At the end of the day, people want a bit of a spectacle; they want to watch something.
Nikki Andrews – We have a lot of new designers showing here. There’s a lot of discussions around whether a designer’s ready to do a runway show. If you’re not ready, they can do the Suites, which I think is a great decision. This year a UK designer cam to Sydney to launch her Resort collection. Koral is another international brand that’s only been around 2 years and used Sydney as a platform to launch in the ACTIVE group show. The decision to move to Resort was a fantastic decision two years ago, and it fits in with our lifestyle here. It fits in well with designers, both emerging and established.
Steff Yotka – From a purely logistical perspective there’s a Fashion Week every week around the world! Resort works well with Australian fashion. It’s also nice to see swimwear on the beach instead of in a ‘white box’ gallery! This is my third trip and I’d tell people in New York about it. There they think Australians are relaxed and healthy and the clothes here reflect it and internationally there’s so much badness in the world and you want to put on clothes and feel good. People being able to meet a designer add see a garment in the flesh is irreplaceable. You can see it on runway.com but in person at FW you understand the designer’s vision.
Aaron Newbill – Anything I buy online is something I’ve seen in person. Seeing it in person is the only way. The menswear WoolMark designer Blair Archibald felt fresh; classic but with a twist. It felt like something that’s missing in the other markets. This is a strong viable market here that can produce a designer like that that’ll be on the world stage.
Nikki Andrews – I still believe in slow and steady. Especially when launching your brand. You feel like you have to do it but you can’t be everything to everybody; the strategic piece of the puzzle is important. Young brands are forming their Instagram but put all their eggs in one basket. Have a strong strategy.
Aaron Newbill – It’s a marathon not a sprint. If you’re not quite ready, then hold off . You’re only going to get that first introduction once. Showing to a global market is so important. Maybe you’re not ready for a full fledged show, then a student show or a group show is fantastic, e.g. Pereira Fitzgerald. Everyone at student show this year has had a strong point of view. Some years it’s been somewhat diluted.
How about the Streetstyle? There’s been as much energy outside as inside.
Aaron Newbill – People are taking inspiration from Editors -or fashion students sneaking in -and wearing their look. Everyone likes looking at a peacock so that’s always fun. It can get a circus-y sometimes but it’s a tough world out there so why not. Maybe it’s not for me but I love it.
Steff Yotka – I LOVE a streetstyle slideshow! Seeing how everyone puts it together. We found so many designers through streetstyle. You might not think of streetstyle as a launch of designers, but in Stockholm last year, everyone had this cute little bag and we went through all these channels to find this bag and now it’s stocked on Net a Porter. In Sydney streetstyle, there’s a beachy vibe. There’s a feminine spirit here that’s not so strong in New York. A lot of great blazers here I got to say. Also streetstyle photography is not new. It’s been going for decades. It’s a great way for photographers to really find their voice .
Aaron Newbill – Carriageworks is a great backdrop. Streetstyle seems very polished and put together here.
Sonny Vandevelde – Love Tommy Ton hiding behind a car or something to get a unique shot, but I hate the same influencers walking up and down for shots.
Nikki Andrews- As long as they stay outside I’m happy as I don’t have anything to do with it!
Highlights of AFW for you?
Steff Yotka – You can’t beat the Emilia Wickstead Matches.com presentation at the seaside. Two of them went for a swim! Snacks and a beautiful beach. It really felt like something you could only see at Australian Fashion Week … similarly, the Double Rainbow event at an inner city pub.
Aaron Newbill – Loved Blair Archibald. I used the music used Shazam app a lot. Loved the offsite venues. Ran so well compared to FWs around the world. The use of Carriageworks venue added something to the clothes. Models were all so smiley. Models were dancing after Ten Pieces show at Icebergs; and it was only 9.45 in the morning!
Megan Robinson
18 May 2018