Rumour had it that before the Trelise Cooper show, the clothes went missing. We wondered if we might be faced with an ‘Emperor’s New Clothes’ situation…
Rumour had it that before the Trelise Cooper show, the clothes went missing. We wondered if we might be faced with an ‘Emperor’s New Clothes’ situation as “the show must go on.” It was an unsubstantiated rumour, but could explain why the show ran an hour after schedule. Perhaps it was due to the impressive stage set up. Or perhaps setting up all those names on seats. We felt for the next audience who had to wait in the foyer for them to re-set all those individual seat names and goody bags.
Speaking of the stage, it was built specifically for this show; bright white and raised high above the ground with a large square centre which people were seated around. Some media had complained about being in Row E but in fact this was the front row, as rows A to D were taken up by the square stage. In fact it got to the point that Trelise’s PR team sent out an email explaining, "Just to clarify the seating for the Trelise Cooper show this evening… without giving away the surprise of the show, our seating and staging will not be following the normal room layout, and we have two front rows of A and E. So your Row E ticket is in fact front row. Your physical ticket does have front row indicated on it, but if you are only looking at your Delegate Pass, this may not be clear. We hope this clarifies any confusion and hope you enjoy the show!"
This show could be nicknamed ‘Trelise’s New Look’. Gone are the frou frou petticoats of seasons past and floral coats with pretty-pretty faces: in their place spikes, tartan, leather, and piercings. Trelise Cooper herself has undergone a personal transformation of weightloss and replacing her trademark blonde curls often with straightened hair. In fact, I had someone ask me, "Is that Yvonne Bennetti?"
Cooper by Trelise Winter 2014 came out first, and blew everyone away – largely with the shock of the facial piercings on models. Oohs could be heard drifting up to the ceiling from the captivated crowd.
Models were embellished with a bounty of facial piercings, with teased hair worn in high ponytails by Bettjemans, dark magenta lips by M.A.C, and sky-high heels and school-girl platform sandals throughout. Spiked studs and red tartan gave a Vivienne Westwood-esque feel to the range. This was juxtaposed against the prints inspired by ‘Grandad’s cravats and vintage ties’.
There was a tension between the contrasts in old-country romance and grungy punk.
Part II: the tent descends…
Next up was the Trelise Cooper Winter 2014 Collection. A billowy white tent dropped from the ceiling and a throbbing James Blake song boomed over the speakers as models walked out with sky-high beehive hairstyles (fast work, hair team) and porn star-height shoes.
Rich, deep colours throughout the collection created a moody sense of mystery to the garments. Offbeat glamour reigned, from rock royalty jacquards and blackened silks accented with colourful blanket weaves, to roomy cocoon coats and military jackets.
The longest show of fashion week (160 outfits, over 18 minutes long) ended with an embellished gold ombre floor-length dress, giving a nod to the tradition of ending with a wedding dress.
Olivia Boswell and Megan Robinson 4th September 2013
Photographs Izzie Austin
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